Verdad (Spanish for the truth), a tapas and tequila bar opens today in Bryn Mawr at the site of the former Carmine’s Creole Cafe.

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David Snyder praises chef Chris D’Ambro’s Mediterranean tapas at Bocca in Old City.

 Take the timeless beef tartare. D’Ambro updates this standard by using hanger steak instead of filet or sirloin, granting the dish rich, gamey flavor. Tiny decorative spheres of balsamic caviar, which D’Ambro makes with agar-agar, a natural structural ingredient commonly found in Chinese food, add delicate flashes of sweetness and acidity. An emulsion (or “air”) of capers adds a subtle puff of brininess. None of these nouveau elements upset the dish’s balance – each bite remains accessible and fun.

Smart Mouth [City Paper]
Bocca [Official Site]

During happy hour at Tinto, you can enjoy some of Jose Garces’ delectable pinxtos for free and enjoy half-priced sangria along with reduced-price beer. Happy hour is Monday through Friday, from 5 to 7pm.

Tinto [Official Site]

Craig LaBan’s review of South Street’s Sonam reminds us of a Ryan Howard at bat. When chef Ben Byruch connects he often hit a home run but there were too many whiffs in the ambitious menu. But hey, at least he’s trying for a home run.

Among the most memorable were the “hamachi nachos,” tortilla chips topped with yellowtail sushi and a spicy streak of oil infused with the essence of pico de gallo. There is also a memorable savory trompe l’oeil twist on S’Mores, in which broiled goat-cheese “marshmallows” sit atop the chocolate lookalike of reduced figs and whole meal crackers for a clever campfire twist on the cheese course.

The Asian chicken sliders – three brioche-bun minis topped with a ponzu mayonnaise – are among the best poultry burgers I’ve ever had. Granted, that’s not a high bar, but I’ve actually come to crave these moist and gingery little patties.

One Bell – Hit or Miss

Sonam [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Sonam [Official Site]

Craig LaBan puts G-Ho’s Apamate in his sights and he likes what he sees.

The service is still frustratingly inconsistent (our Saturday dinner waitress was fabulous, our brunch waiter so uninterested he was almost rude). The erratic hours have smartly been pared back to focus on dinner and brunch. But more important, the self-taught Ormaechea, who previously worked as a server at Cibucan, is cooking with self-assured inspiration that should make this underappreciated spot a destination – if it can get the service in gear.

Her homemade chorizo lends an earthy backbone to a tiny red crock of chickpea stew. Caramellos de morcilla, inspired by a meal in Asturias, bring crispy bonbon-shaped dumplings filled with blood sausage, apples and sage.

Two Bells – Very Good

Cafe Apamate [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Cafe Apamate [Official Site]

Craig LaBan pours the praise on for Supper, the South Street, small plates restaurant that he calls “one of the most exciting restaurants” he’s reviewed in the last six months.

When Supper’s menu advertises a “short rib,” you’re really going to get a short one.

But my goodness, that piece of meat melts in a way I haven’t experienced in a while. It’s the result of more than 36 hours of slow poaching, finished with a glaze of grainy mustard sparking against the earthy sweet-and-sour of a bitter chocolate and raisin sauce. Sided with tender baby turnips, carrots and brussels sprouts, I can see why it costs $19.

Lavishing that kind of attention on quality ingredients, spinning them with detail into inventive combinations, is the ultimate justification for these prices. And Supper, thanks to chef Mitch and his talented chef de cuisine Brinn Sinnott (ex-Lacroix), delivers at a high level with admirable consistency.

Three Bells – Excellent

Supper’s on – really on [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Supper [Official Site]

Tonight and every Thursday Bar Ferdinand is offering a 5-course tasting menu for $35.

Bar Ferdinand [Official Site]

Adam Erace checks out Sonam on South Street and finds the simpler dishes the best with the notable exception of the cheesesteak terrine.

Served with creme fraiche and truffled wonton chips, the dynamic wild boar tartare dressed with curry, blood orange juice and chopped black truffles blows my mind, as does the fried butternut-squash-and-chicken wontons alongside a cloud of woodsy sage whipped cream. Fun s’mores made with gooey fig paste, ethereal goat-cheese marshmallows and cardboard- flavored wheat crackers play savory and sweet, while chicharrones make a salty counterpoint for dense chocolate gelato.

A notable exception to the simpler-is-better theory: the cheesesteak terrine. Served with a sideswipe of provolone “wiz,” hot-pepper duxelle and candy-like tomato molasses it’s messy, complicated and hard to eat. But dragged through those clever condiments, each forkful of onion-studded cheesesteak mousse is a beefy wonder that proves playfulness and maturity are not mutually exclusive. Translate that balance to the rest of the menu, and Sonam has a shot at being Philly’s next small-plate paramour.

Dim Sum Like It Hot [Philadelphia Weekly]

Elisa Ludwig samples the small platters of “global dim sum” at Sonam with some mixed results but plenty of potential.

A few were so tasty that they merited a larger portion, like a special of ruby slices of tuna served over tempura-encased white asparagus spears. The wild boar tartare, little translucent bits of meat glistening with blood orange vinaigrette, blended decadently with dabs of crème fraîche on truffle-scented wonton chips. In the hamachi nachos, cool slices of yellowtail on crisp flour tortilla chips were further enlivened by avocado purée, microgreens and a delicate drizzle of pico de gallo oil.

World of Mouth [City Paper]
Sonam [Official Site]

Last week we were lucky enough to try out the new seasonal dishes that have been added to the menu at Amada. We struggled with which superlatives to use then and now, but “sensational” and “stupendous” certainly were among them. Short rib ravioli and a lot more after the jump.

Menu additions are after the jump.

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