Adam Erace visits 6-year old August in South Philly and finds little has changed over its existence and that’s just fine.

August subscribes to the if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it school, but [chef Mary Ann] Brancaccio definitely has the chops to push further, evidenced by her tender artichoke hearts sauteed in white wine with sun-dried tomatoes, cannellini beans and leeks. It was a dish of refreshing tangs and sharp angles, accentuated by a view of new cherry blossoms and a generous green drizzle of unfiltered extra-virgin olive oil. I sopped the latter up with the excellent bread from Faragalli’s bakery, just down the street.

August [Philadelphia Weekly]
August [Offiicial Site]

Shank’s & Evelyn’s last day in South Philadelphia will be this Thursday. Then it’s 6 to 8 weeks until they open on 15th Street near Sansom at the former J.B. Pastrami’s. Some of the old classics like tripe and veal scaloppinni won’t make the trip to Center City, hopefully the old school vibe and even the Benito Mussolini photo do make the journey north. Old South Philly classic moves North [Metro Philadelphia] Shank’s & Evelyn’s confirms it’s Center City-bound [The Insider]

Owner Clark Newman has to be pleased with the glowing 2-bells review for his Lucky 13.

It is chef Benjamin Johnson, though, Newman’s fedora-topped compadre in the kitchen, who puts Lucky 13 on the map of gastropubs that are worth heading to for dinner. Like the pub’s smart beer selection (five taps and 20 bottles), his affordable menu is concise but distinctive, with cheeky twists on familiar flavors, from “deconstructed” meatballs to sausage and peppers gone exotic.

“Punk-rock grandma cooking” is how Johnson characterizes his creative take on comfort classics, which may not be a surprising angle from a chef who grew up at a West Philly commune and whose rebellious streak even extends to the conventional white toques he shuns in favor of “nicer lids” such as a bowler or Panama.

Two Bells – Very Good

Lucky 13 [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Lucky 13 [Official Site]

Bebe’s Barbecue is now open in the Italian Market across from Fante’s Kitchen Wares. The simple takeout spot has generated good word of mouth already, unfortunately they seem to close before 9pm so we haven’t checked it out firsthand. 

Take a look at the affordable menu after the jump.

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Trey Popp finds Saute is a new BYOB that’s already impressing behind the cooking of chef and co-owner Nicholas Cassidy.

Cassidy’s cooking is creative but not self-conscious or gimmicky. Anticipating a menu that changes every couple of weeks — and summer produce on the way — I look forward to tucking into more of his ideas. This may be the year of the blockbuster steak house, but Sauté is a reminder that nothing has the power to surpass expectations quite like a modest BYOB.

Pan Handled [City Paper]

Adam Erace checks out the new-ish menu of Scott Schroeder at South Philadelphia Taproom. He likes it, and he ain’t lion.

South Philadelphia Tap Room Gets a New Chef. Again. [Philadelphia Weekly]
South Philadelphia Taproom [Official Site]

Shank’s & Evelyn’s is “relocating” from its South Philadelphia location of almost 50 years and considering a spot near the Union League at 15th and Sansom. Rick Nichols visits the institution now in its final days at 932 S 10th Street.

On the Side: Transplanting Shank’s [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Trey Popp rolls into Merl’s, a 20-seat diner at 16th and Dickinson. 

The meat-heavy menu loads the bases with bacon — pork, beef, turkey — and drives them home with the same trifecta in scrapple form. Six and change buys a platter with a meat and two eggs plus grits or home fries. But for my money, the only thing worth considering is the one in black marker. Merl’s chicken wings sport a crispy batter that pops with a few drops of Bayou Heat hot sauce, and meat as moist as it gets. The sprinkle of powdered sugar is all her Belgian waffle needs to play sweet foil to the savory fowl.

 

Merl-y Gates [City Paper]

You survived the excitement of the 2008 Philadelphia Phillies championship season but can you survive the burger named in their honor? The Lyons Den is offering City of Champions burgers that commemorate championship seasons in Philadelphia history. The 2008 Phillies burger is topped with provolone, sweet sausage, marinara and onion rings.

Check out all 11 after the jump.

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Teri’s in the Italian Market looks like a deli but at night, it’s playing the part of restaurant. Adam Erace tries not to judge the spot on its looks.

 

After six months spinning bacon-egg-and-cheese bagels and Italian hoagies, the siblings-in-law added dinner service in January under Executive Chef Davis Denick. A Culinary Insitute of America grad and Coquette vet, his succinct, surprising new American menu—Shad roe! Persimmon! Chestnuts!—really deserves a prettier stage.

Every Wednesday through Sunday at 5 p.m., Denick takes over, stocking that Dietz & Watson caboose not with Oscar Meyer and sharp provolone but with legs of duck confit and peeled pears for poaching aligned in orderly rows. The dishes I ate were uncomplicated, but never to a fault, and the prices—$7 to $10 appetizers, $15-$20 entrees, plus a three-course $30 prix fixe open to the whole menu and a $5 wine refund with a state store receipt—were on the money, so to speak.

 

Delicatension [Philadelphia Weekly]