Craig LaBan enjoys the ambitious talent of chef Nicholas Cassidy even if he isn’t a big fan of the name of Saute.

[H]is menus reflect that restless curiosity, changing significantly from week to week, and ranging widely in influence from Latin seviche to house-made French charcuterie to the Asian-Italian fusion of seared tuna over soba carbonara, the buckwheat noodles tossed in a Parmesan froth with bacon and edamame.

With a few exceptions, Cassidy showed the sensibility, skill, and commitment to no-shortcut cooking that made these disparate flavors work.

Two Bells – Very Good

Saute [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Craig LaBan heads to Queen Village’s Saute to drop his opinions this Sunday. How will the New American BYOB fair? The food certainly pleased the reviewers from the weeklies.

Adam Erace visits Saute and has lots of good things to say about the cooking but he’s got a gripe with the menu’s lack of seasonality. Although these potatoes sound great, no matter the month.

As a sidecar to the new American entrees, fingerling potatoes arrive with a shiny duck-fat gloss that glints under the soft hazel lights of the former La Creole. Poached at 200 degrees in Talbot’s lube of choice, the potatoes are possessed by an intensely ducklike essence. Each bite brings a slick of aromatic grease; a burst of papery, cast iron-crisped skin; a smush of creamy, slow-poached spud; a fleeting finish of concentrated wild game flavor. Topped with chives and a dollop of Daisy, these charmingly misshapen fingerlings are perfect. For December.

Simmer in the City [Philadelphia Weekly]

Trey Popp finds Saute is a new BYOB that’s already impressing behind the cooking of chef and co-owner Nicholas Cassidy.

Cassidy’s cooking is creative but not self-conscious or gimmicky. Anticipating a menu that changes every couple of weeks — and summer produce on the way — I look forward to tucking into more of his ideas. This may be the year of the blockbuster steak house, but Sauté is a reminder that nothing has the power to surpass expectations quite like a modest BYOB.

Pan Handled [City Paper]

Philly Beer Week has announced they’ve broken the 500 600 events mark but Joe Sixpack’s math has the number north of 700. [Beer Radar]

Standard Tap co-owner Paul Kimport is back in the kitchen, this time at sister restaurant, Johnny Brenda’s. He’ll be focusing the menu and including more snacks and small plates. [Philadelphia Magazine]

Sauté has opened on Front Street and the opening emails we’ve gotten sound promising. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Another Tiffin alum is branching out on his own. Rakesh Ramola has opened IndeBlue, an Indian BYOB in Collingswood. [The Insider]

Happy Rooster adding a bar with 12 stools plus flat-screen TVs to its back room. [Meal Ticket]

Taquet in Wayne is going to be under new ownership and tutelage. The new chef, Francis Layrle has experience as the chef at the French embassy in DC. [The Insider]

There’s “real barbecue” on the Main Line now with the opening of Jimmy’s BBQ in Malvern. [Main Line Restaurant Guide]

American Pub at Centre Square is looking to open beneath the Clothespin sculpture at 15th and Market. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Yesterday, The Insider posted its 2009 restaurant forecast with lots of tasty morsels from big to small. Among the new to us, S & H Kebab House will be a Turkish kabob BYOB at the former Overtures. VargaBar is the name for the Valanni backed redo of Azul. Saute and Slate are aiming to be open by the end of the month and Girasole, is not dead after all. [The Insider]

As you may have noticed in the ad to the left, John Mims, formerly of Carmine’s and Les Bons Temps is going to be opening Mims in Wayne, where he’ll be serving contemporary New Orleans comfort food.

Neil Stein to South Street? Could it be? [Ice Pack, City Paper]

Table Talk higlights the new MangoMoon in Manayunk. It’s “warm but dramatic,” featuring Thai small plates and no Pad Thai! [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Pasqual Cancelliere, who ran Butcher’s Cafe with his father before selling the spot, is coming back to 9th Street with 943 , a Argentine and Italian themed restaurant. [Meal Ticket]

Pico de Gallo is expanding but not going far. The 15th and South Mexican is opening across the street in a larger space and will be turning the existing Pico into a cheaper takeout and delivery spot. [The Insider]

We do love ourselves some crêpes, so we’re ready to check out the new Crêpe Maker in 30th Street Station. [Meal Ticket]

The Insider has Northern Liberties possibly getting a wine bar, Vinoteca. Here’s hoping they have more success than Wineo. [The Insider]

MenuPages has some good suggestions on dining with large groups and OpenTable. [MenuPages Blog]

Hey Pennsters, That Bucks County Coffee you’ve come to love at 40th and Locust is set to become a Saxbys on October 1. In other Saxby’s news, look for a new one at 15th and Locust. [Daily Pennsylvanian]

We noticed this as well, it seems like JL Sullivan’s Speakeasy is suffering from a bit of an identity crisis. First they dropped the Speakeasy and in a promo for a grand opening party this weekend they are going by JLS. [The Clog]

We first heard about Saute in July. it was a month away then, it’s a month away now. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

“Bottled or tap” is one question you won’t hear anymore at White Dog Cafe. The environmentally conscious West Philadelphia Restaurant is kicking the bottled water habit. [Inqlings, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Alma de Cuba alum Nicholas Cassidy is opening Saute, a French influenced spot at the old Le Creole on Front Street in about a month. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Distrito is opening fo’ sho this Monday. Volkswagen beetle booths for everyone! [Phoodie.info]

Four Worlds Bakery brings the baking of former Le Bec-Fin baker Michael Dolich to a storefront at 4423 Chestnut Street. Opening is expected by the end of the month. [Feeding Frenzy, City Paper]

General Lafayette brews are headed to distributors shelves. Look for Abbey Blonde and Chocolate Thunder by the end of the week. [Liquid Diet]

A former funeral parlor in Port Richmond is getting new life as a pizzeria, Cassizzi’s. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Alison Barshak has found a chef for Alison two. His name is Bill Lewis and he has experience at 4 and 5 Diamond Resorts from San Francisco to Baltimore. Alison is promising her new restaurant will be open in time to wear your white shoes there. [Alison's New Restaurant]

Tria’s Washington Square location is celebrating its first anniversary and has extended their hours to stay open later Wednesday through Saturday.