Long before Nick’s Roast Beef had the great idea of putting bits of beef and gravy on their French fries they had a bit of an empire. Only three remain, two under original ownership in South Philadelphia and Delaware County and the third, which started as a franchise is in Old City.

This 1969 photograph shows a subterranean Nick’s on the 700 block of Walnut Street.

713 Walnut St [PhillyHistory.org]

Rick Nichols visits the original Nick’s Roast Beef at 20th and Jackson for a sandwich that has hardly changed in its 70 years.

Old Original Nick’s is a serious-minded sandwich, the beef well-done, toothsome, but tender. On a roll dripping with the “gravy” of meat juices (mixed with pureed vegetables), the beefy mess is as substantial, but not overstuffed, as meaningful a sandwich as you can hope for as the Eagles wing into the sunset.

It is not merely roast beef, it is particularly roast beef – 90-pound, USDA Prime steamship rounds (which include the top and bottom round) that Kissin Fresh, the meat supplier, picks up from New York and whittles down to Nick’s specs, deboning them, cutting out the nerves, leaving a thin layer of fat on the top.

The giant rounds are hand-tied and slow-cooked for eight hours in old ovens in the basement. Then Chris Murray or other carvers (who go through 40 knives a week while another 40 are being sharpened) slice the meat to order – following the grain – taking off the seasoned crust called the “outs,” setting it aside for those who want it (like I do!) added to their sandwich. (How does one order that? “A beef combo on the outs” gets you beef with aged provolone and some crust. “Overboard” gets you extra juices. “Operation” gets your roll’s insides gutted out.

Where’s the beef? Still at Nick’s [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Old Original Nick’s Roast Beef [Official Site]

Thinking meat? How about bringing a meat loving friend and chowing down at Fogo de Ch�o. If the price tag scares you a bit for a Tuesday night out. Then head to the original Nick’s Roast Beef at 20th and Jackson and don’t forget to order the gravy fries. Crispy fries heaped with gravy and more meat! A decadent treat.