David Snyder finds enough to like at Aladeen Middle Eastern Restaurant on South Street that he’ll be back.

 The first is a traditional Moroccan bastilla. If a breakfast burrito had sex with a coffee cake, this would be their offspring. A mammoth pastry crust stuffed with eggs, chicken, crushed almonds and spices is baked, and then topped with mounds of powdered sugar and latticed with ground cinnamon. Though Aladeen lists it as an app, the pie’s sweet and savory interplay satisfies my lifelong quest for a compelling meat-based dessert.

 Genie in a Bottle [City Paper]

Craig LaBan takes on Novita Bistro, an Italian BYOB that thankfully comes with a Morrocan twist.

[I]t is [Chef Hassan] Zanzoul’s increasing willingness to cook the flavors of his native Morocco that has finally given this pleasant bistro its first air of distinction. The garlicky house-made merguez lamb sausage is among my favorites here, grilled to a crispy brown for an appetizer over a coarse hummuslike mash of chickpeas ringed by vibrant red charmoula sauce. It’s also served as an entree over couscous alongside a brochette of big marinated grilled shrimp. The ever-cautious Zanzoul makes these skinless links with less chile heat than I’d like (and he’d like, for that matter), but this also allows the spice box of other aromatics to surge forth in a chorus of cumin, anise, paprika, and allspice that finds an echo in the tangy charmoula, a citrusy brew tinged sunburst red and smoky with paprika and cayenne.

Two Bells – Very Good

Novita Bistro [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Novita Bistro [Official Site]

Always a fun choice for a big group, we forgot what a bargain Fez is.

The 7-course Fez Feast, complete with salad, bastilla, one choice of two chicken entrees, beef shish kabob or lamb with honey and almonds, vegetable couscous, fresh fruit, mint tea and Moroccan pastries is just $25. Vegetarians can get the same price, substituting 2 vegetarian entrees in place of the meat dishes.

Fez [Official Site]

Novitra Bistro brings another Italian BYOB to Philadelphia, albeit with hints of Morocco. City Paper’s David Snyder suggest that maybe that’s what they should focus on.

[Chef/co-owner Hassan] Zanzoul, a native Moroccan, cut his teeth cooking in Italy for roughly 10 years before attending the French Culinary Institute. And, much like the décor of this 36-seater — artwork featuring Italian and French street scenes alongside Moroccan pots nestled discreetly in dark corners — the menu reflects a triumvirate of influences. “My menu is very open for everybody,” Zanzoul said.

But homogeneity has its price. I understand why restaurants continue to be tempted to employ the Italian BYOB model — somehow, after all of these years, it still works. But many Philadelphians are looking for an antidote to the formula. And it’s disappointing to see something that could help to meet that need — a stand-alone Moroccan place, perhaps? — be diluted by more of the same.

Missing Morocco [City Paper]

Phillyist visits the Philadelphia institution Marrakesh to enjoy Moroccan just off the hustle and bustle of South Street.

Overall, Marrakesh was an odd but enjoyable new experience. In the end, it comes down to the food, and the restaurant certainly held its own in that category. Phillyist recommends giving it a try, especially on a Saturday, when belly dancers are there for increased sensory overload. Just be sure to make reservations and go with people who wash their hands.

Restaurant Review: Marrakesh [Phillyist]

Chef Mustapha Rouissiya is back from Morocco and is offering a 3-course dinner at Figs from Sunday to Thursday for just $24.