Craig LaBan finds a little bit of the South of France in South Jersey at Dream Cuisine, a French cafe tucked in among chain restaurants.

And the straightforward presentations are rustic French, rather than fussy French, with chunky tomato-based sauces that evoke the Mediterranean garden. This food reminds me of the grandmère cooking you’d find at a neighborhood cafe – if your neighborhood happened to be near Fanari’s native Nice.

The intoxicating smell of garlic and Pastis rises up from broiled scallop shells that cradle both tiny bay and larger sea mollusks – and I sop up with crusty bread every last drop of the remaining crumb-thickened juices. A lightly seared tuna steak comes posed over real ratatouille – the Provençal vegetable medley of eggplant, zucchini, onions, peppers and basil-laced tomatoes, sauteed separately in olive oil before being brought together for a final simmer.

Two Bells – Very Good

Dream Cuisine [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Dream Cuisine [Official Site]

Cochon, our latest French spot is set to open tomorrow at Passyunk and Catharine in Queen Village. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Look for Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s Indian restaurant Bindi to open in early November.[Feeding Frenzy, City Paper]

In Jersey, Kuzina by Sofia has opened in Cherry Hill’s Sawmill Shopping Center and Dream Cuisine Cafe has landed at Village Walk. [Table Talk, Philadelphia Inquirer]

Gardenia Restaurant is now open at the Art Alliance just off of Rittenhouse Square. The former Le Jardin will serve lunch from Tuesday to Saturday and on Sundays offer brunch. [Feeding Frenzy, City Paper]

G-Ho’s Side Car Bar & Grille is now open for Saturday lunch.