Adam Erace’s review of Teplitzky’s at the Chelsea in Atlantic City reads like a prototypical one-bell, hit-or-miss review of another reviewer in town. But that’s not to say there aren’t dishes worth doting over.

Two tender matzo balls bob like buoys in the broth. On the shimmering surface, golden droplets of chicken fat-the only way to conjure them is making the stock from scratch, which Murphy admirably does-catch the light like shipwrecked jewelry on gentle Atlantic swells. These magic molecules inform a broth so deep it sends echoes down the esophagus. Now I get why they call this stuff Jewish penicillin. All the single bubbes, put your hands up. I’m available.
 

Diamonds and Clubs [Philadelphia Weekly]
Teplitzky’s [Official Site]

The Bite is a bit tired of all the love mac and cheese has been getting. There’s plenty of other good comfort foods out there, especially at the Royal Tavern.

Taking comfort in other dishes [Metro Philadelphia]

Mac and cheese is all the rave right now and Craig LaBan traverses the Delaware Valley taking in everything from the simple to the haute.

LaBan calls Deborah’s Kitchen’s rendition of mac ‘n’ cheese his soul food favorite and 10 Art’s “creamy, ham-studded macaroni is my absolute favorite of the new lot.”

Also included in the article are recipes for versions of mac ‘n’ cheese from 10 Arts, Cooper’s Brick Oven Wine Bar, Lacroix and  Talula’s Table.

Chic comfort [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Foodaphilia tries out the much buzzed about mac and cheese menu at Swallow.

Overall, Swallow’s new menu is less appealing for the old crowd it used to draw, but is more appealing for those who want a reasonably priced comfort food meal with a serious level of customizability. The new menu is likely to keep Swallow afloat in these trying economic times, but I for one am going to miss the seared tuna over white bean puree and the perfectly grilled flank steak from their earlier incarnation. The mac & cheese debate will likely continue to roar in Northern Libs, but the newest venue for serving up this classic dish has some unique things to offer at an affordable price.

Swallow: Mac & Cheese Bistro [Foodaphilia]
Swallow [Official Site]

The Daily News takes an early look at the Ugly American and urges the restaurant chill out on some of its dishes.

The restaurant is in its infancy and I really liked much of the experience, but there needs to be some restraint in the dishes. Too much is going on in over-the-top combinations. One of my tasters described it as going back to the period when American chefs started adding ingredients and fusions just because all those flavors were there.

It led to what some called “confusion cuisine.”

So, while I love the fact that the bar menu has the classic Beef-on-Weck sandwich (Buffalo, N.Y.’s, answer to our cheesesteak) and that there are some delicious dishes to be had, there are – like American tourists – some real loud and boorish ones to be found.

Two Forks – Good, worth the trip

Ugly American could use a little restraint [Philadelphia Daily News]

Craig LaBan tries the comfort food of 707 Restaurant & Lounge and finds some worthwhile comfort food updates but not enough to escape a one bell rating.

Yes, there is style galore at 707, which is one of the most handsome restaurants to open this year. But are the scenesters being fed with substance?

That depends, of course, upon what you order from the extensive and affordable menu of updated American classics, which hits highlights with overloaded salads and a nearly perfect omelet. But on the whole, the cleverly fussed-with comfort food – something of a cross between Jones and Marathon Grill – is packed with more “whimsy” than “yummy.”

One Bell – Hit Or Miss

707 Restaurant & Bar [Philadelphia Inquirer]
707 Restaurant & Bar [Official Site]

We’ve always thought of the grilled cheese as a cold weather food, so we were a bit surprised to see City Paper come up with a list of top grilled cheeses on August 2nd. But really, when is delicious molten cheese on good bread not a good idea?

Coming up on top is the Pop Shop’s Park, American cheese melted into a halved Philadelphia soft pretzel.

Griddle Me This

Brian McManus wonders what the point is to all the high-end design at 707 if the food doesn’t deliver.

Dinner’s a bust, but at least it’s a scene. Later in the week, lunch sees 707 sparsely occupied, but service is still slow, the food still takes an age to come, and when the dishes do arrive, they disappoint.

Where My Dogs At? [Philadelphia Weekly]
707 Restaurant [Official Site]

Foodaphilia checks out bargain bowling at North Bowl on Wednesday night ($2 shoes, $2 games, $2 PBR and $2 tater tots after 10 PM) and also samples the menu.

My favorite thing to munch on at North Bowl is their Mac & Cheese. While not as good as Shannon’s over at A Full Plate, it is delicious in it’s own right. And topped with crushed goldfish cheese crackers, a nice touch.

North Bowl [Foodaphilia]
North Bowl [Official Site]

Kirsten Henri visits A Full Plate in Northern Liberties hoping the food can match the charming decor.
The bright green and purple walls invite. The hand painted tables and hanging pots and pans have you excited by the prospects. But in the end, “A Full Plate, so promising to look at, disappointed when it came to the food.”
Brunch was the most enjoyable, the eggs benedict “reconfigured with spicy panko-encrusted fried green tomatoes standing in for the English muffin and mozzarella cheese tucked under the eggs and hollandaise.” Three croisants, each stuffed with a different ingredients was also above par.
But too few of the other dishes were more than mediocre.
You leave wanting to love A Full Plate, and it does have potential, and the decor is already there.