As is the tradition every summer, Craig LaBan takes a look at the Jersey Shore dining scene, this year he finds the ultimate oyster at Blackfish Avalon.

Now that I’ve been to Blackfish Avalon, though, I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to slurp another Cape May Salt without hoping for a carbonated froth of Meyer lemon and a dice of pickled watermelon on top. That fizzy cloud of citrus, whipped to a high-tech mousse with xanthan gum and CO2, had a tart effervescence that set the mollusk to brisk attention. Then it melted away like lemony sea foam when I took a bite, leaving the heightened taste of oyster framed by a subtle crunch of sweet-and-sour watermelon.

It takes a great chef to improve on something nature has already perfected. But talented Chip Roman, 29, already is making it seem effortless at the newly minted Avalon branch of his popular Conshohocken BYOB.

LaBan also takes a look at Stone Harbor’s Jay’s On Third and Quahog’s Seafood Shack, Ocean City’s Who’s On 1st and Ventnor’s Gertrude’s.

Pearls of great taste [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Blackfish Avalon [Official Site]