Craig LaBan focuses in on the short-rib popovers at Big Fork in Chadds Ford.

[Chef Kevin] Diskin braises the beef for nearly eight hours, then wraps the deeply flavorful shreds inside a triangle of buttery puff pastry. Baked and served alongside a mustardy slaw of crunchy celery root, it’s almost like eating a warm terrine en croute.

Short-Rib Popovers [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Big Fork [Official Site]