Archive for the 'Reviews' Category

Craig LaBan reviews Mt. Airy’s new bistro, the Wine Thief and despite a shaky first visit he finds enough improvement in subsequent visits to award the spot two-bells.

The “Thief Roll” is one of [Chef Jared] Cohen’s most addictive dishes, medallions of tuna maki that wrapped ruby-raw fish inside a ring of seaweed and the flash-fried crisp of a sesame crust, over spicy streaks of wasabi cream. The halibut ceviche was so zippy in its citrus marinade, I only wish there’d been more of the fish tucked into the martini glass of citrus and lacy peppers.

There was an outstanding fried chicken, whose tawny crust crackled with the unexpected savor of lemon and celery. It came with a pudding of crumbled corn bread, niblets, and peppers that was decadently ribboned with custard set oh-so-barely to order.

Wine Thief deserves a reprieve [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Wine Thief [Official Site]

David Snyder checks out the latest incarnation of Marigold Kitchen and enjoys what is coming out of chef Robert Halpern’s kitchen.

Halpern proves his mettle with his strong, vivid flavors. Despite that unsettling spinach side, I was blown away by the seared squab. Braised shiitakes delivered a welcomed bass note to the light but gamey bird, and Halpern took things even deeper by combining foie gras and chocolate for an insane ragout.

The kitchen fine-chops cauliflower to mimic rice in its generously portioned New World paella. Though it could use more heat, four individual stocks combined with the smokiness of Spanish chorizo made this dish a sure thing. Elsewhere, poaching Atlantic cod gently on low heat ensured that the fish was moist and tender.

More than words [City Paper]

Adam Erace manages to incorporate “whorebath” into his largely positive review of Miga, the smokeless Korean barbecue on 15th Street.

The menu describes belly as “unseasoned,” which you should read as “bland.” But it’s okay, really, as the salt-and-peppered sesame oil and intensely savory Korean bean paste take care of that. You’re meant to dip each piece of pork before bundling them in frilly red leaf lettuce cups with sliced garlic and chilies. Dip, wrap. Dip, wrap. United, the ingredients in this leafy Korean burrito brought real balance. Fresh and rich flavors, working in tandem, totally worth the wait.

Miga

Philadining issues an Awesomeness Alert for Pub & Kitchen’s English Onion Soup. A riff on the French classic. [Philadining]

Messy & Picky calls the DiNic’s pulled pork sandwich the Best of the Best and although we have trouble turning our back on our perennial favorite, the DiNic’s roast beef, the pulled pork is not to be missed. [Messy & Picky]

Mac & Cheese reiterates her love of Cafe Con Chocolate. Having been there recently ourselves, we understand. And throwing in our two cents, get the Mexican hot chocolate, it’s muy delicioso. [Mac & Cheese]

We’re not surprised that Living on the Vedge was right there on opening day to take a look at the meat-free Sweetie’s Pie Diner. [Living on the Vedge]

Chicken-Fried Caviar checks out the Pub at the new Wegmans in Collegeville. [Chicken-Fried Caviar]

Kong doesn’t fare so well as the Daily News’ Lari Roiling takes a bite. [Philadelphia Daily News]

The Hong Kong street inspired restaurant doesn’t do any better with the women of the I’ll Eat You Supper Club. [I'll Eat You]

Craig LaBan doesn’t have much bad to say about his trips to Girasole, the glitzy Italian restaurant just steps from the Avenue of the Arts, except for maybe some gripes about the price. But there is a three-course prix-fixe menu for $35 available every night but Saturday that mutes that complaint.

The most memorable flavors at Girasole, however, had a genuinely more homey touch. Even the complimentary opening nibbles – one night some delicate fritters of mashed potato, another night a creamy, herb-flecked mound of house-made ricotta – taste like someone’s mamma made them.

The pastas, in particular, were splendid. Delicate ribbons of house-made tagliatelle came tossed with shavings of fresh baby artichokes and smoky speck. The bucatini Girasole – essentially an amatriciana – wore the zest of rendered pancetta and a flicker of chile pepper in its fresh tomato sauce. There was an authentic seafood risotto filled with shellfish flavor (though a second try wasn’t quite as creamy and fully cooked as the first). My favorite, though, was Girasole’s twist on passatelli.

Two Bells – Very Good

Girasole [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Girasole [Official Site]

Resurrection Ale House has been open a few weeks now, long enough for blogging types to check it out.

Living on the Vedge deals with a crazy in order to try the roasted radicchio and gorgonzola biscotti. [Living on the Vedge]

It’s the pancetta with crab, peas and house-made fettucini that catches the fancy of the Beer/Pork Lass. On the beer side she tries the Schlenkerla Helles, a smoked golden lager from Bamburg Germany. [Beer Lass]

Veggicurious picks the pickle plate and roasted miatake mushroom to take for a spin. [Veggicurious]

In Other Resurrection Ale House News

Every Monday Resurrection is hosting a Mom + Me Happy Hour from 1 to 3pm. That’s a buck off beers when you bring your baby plus a little networking, socializing and friend-making.

Brunch will begin next weekend, the 24th and 25th of October. To celebrate the kickoff, there will be a special wooden cask of Schneider Weisse pouring off the edge of the bar.

Resurrection Ale House [Official Site]

16-year old Ben Zauzmer had a goal to eat at all 40 of the food spots in the Reading Terminal. Then he ranked them for the Daily News.

And he even made it interesting.

Zauzmer’s top 5:

1. Dutch Eating Place
2. Dinner’s Bar-B-Q Chicken
3. Salumeria
4. Down Home Diner
5. Herschel’s East Side Deli
   

Reading Terminal Top 40 [Philadelphia Daily News]
Ben in paradise Video [Philadelphia Daily News]

Trey Popp raves about East Passyunk’s Fond, heaping all sorts of praise on  the French BYOB.

It began with a teasing glance backward at summer: a shot-glass of cold watermelon soup spiced with chilies whose finish reverberated in waves of heat and sweetness for a full 10 seconds on my tongue. It ended with snow-crunch bites of lemon-poppy seed meringues. In between, Styer and Prawlucki composed a three-course ode to autumn that was nearly flawless in execution and design. Their tonal palette ranged from the watery crunch of Asian pear to the molten spill of butternut squash purée encased in ravioli, and from the intense fruitiness of passionfruit-stuffed crêpes to the revelatory bourbon backbone in a full-flavored frozen coffee-liqueur soufflé. Yet at no point did the broad span of their short menu lapse into braggadocio. The spirit invigorating this simply decorated place showed through in the adorable delight with which Prawlucki fielded praise for her desserts — as if she were almost startled by the enthusiasm they’d inspired.

Remembered Fondly [City Paper]
Fond [Official Site]

Adam Erace visits the new Meritage and says the Asian inspired menu and booze-friendly bites are ready to step out of Pub & Kitchen’s shadow.

Meritage’s wine program has become more approachable and affordable, with 14 by the glass (all $8), fun flights and 50 bottles under $50.

So bring on the alcohol sponges, fair bartender! Fat, tempura-fried jalapenos, like addictive poppers filled with hoisin-kissed house-ground pork and cellophane noodles in a ginger-soy glaze. Tight, pan-fried Hudson Valley foie gras dumplings tossed in butter browned with Burgundy truffles, cilantro and scallion. Silky Lancaster chicken liver pâté crowned with black plums macerated in brandy and five spice. All $6 or less, all tasty.

Meritage [Philadelphia Weekly]
Meritage [Official Site]