Revolutionary Pizza At Stella
Posted by Foobooz on December 28th, 2009
David Snyder finds the pizzas of Pizzeria Stella to be revolutionary and delicious.
All that fussing pays off. Stella’s pies — fiercely artisanal, yet light on the wallet — may well redefine the way Philadelphia eats pizza.
What I love about the dozen pizzas on offer here is that they’re far from flashy. The bitter broccoli rabe and gently smoky pancetta topping the vongole (inspired by Frank Pepe’s in New Haven) makes for simple equilibrium with fresh clams. Crushed pistachios, thin-sliced red onion and a trio of mozzarella, fontina and shaved Parmesan team up to provide unexpected bliss on another pizza. Roasted fennel provides a wonderful counterpoint to delicate Lingurian olives on the finocchio. Peppery arugula and salty slivers of prosciutto partner perfectly on the San Daniele. Curled-up coins of Abbruzze salami and San Marzano tomato sauce are reminders of what a pepperoni pizza is really supposed to taste like.
Pie’s the Limit [City Paper]
Stella Pizzeria [Official Site]
215 Lombard St, Philadelphia, PA
Related Tags: Center-City-East, David Snyder, Pizza, Reviewed, Society-Hill, Stella Pizza
December 28th, 2009 at 6:31 pm
Wow I’ve never read a review more off-base than this one. Everything he says here is the exact opposite of how I would describe it. Overpriced and mediocre at best. I’m thinking David went to the wrong Pizzeria Stella.
December 28th, 2009 at 7:38 pm
Joe K, I totally agree.
December 28th, 2009 at 8:54 pm
Try out Treno, in Haddonfield NJ – short ride on Patco to the Westmont Station. Blows Stella away. I think the chef used to work for Starr, too.
December 29th, 2009 at 12:03 am
Philadelphia is a one horse town when it comes to pizza. I really don’t like stephen starr restaurants, but i gotta say, what’s better in philly?
The only place that i would rather eat pizza(in philly) is tacconelli’s.
I’m up for suggestions? Also like La Rosa on Broad and Franco Luigi’s.
December 29th, 2009 at 2:02 am
Joe k, and phillychowgrl.
Been there many times nothing but good pies. I would put it up there with tacconellis.
December 29th, 2009 at 9:53 am
osteria’s pizza.
December 29th, 2009 at 12:46 pm
Rembrandt’s….
December 29th, 2009 at 12:53 pm
@ Willie,
Treno is in Westmont (Westmont PATCO Station) not Haddonfield. Cork, also in Westmont, actually does a mean pie or two and is available M-F during happy hour for $4-5!!
December 29th, 2009 at 1:06 pm
Been to Osteria many times since I live close by and it always pleases me. Went home to Jersey for Christmas, Treno is legit. Right off patco in westmont and it rivals osteria. Many pies, all delicious. Went twice with the family, even when busy my pies were excetional and cooked beautifully
December 29th, 2009 at 1:06 pm
Oh, and Cork happy hour runs from 4-7:30!
December 29th, 2009 at 3:43 pm
also been to treno for pizza, now three times. killer pies, and priced right too. their happy hour can’t be beat-i had a 6 dollar apple, bacon abd tallegio pie that was off the hook and 4 dollar solid glass of wine. they also make their own salamis and pastas. had a small shell with pancetta, peas and cauliflower that made me reconsider ordering pizza next time.