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Two Bells For Brauhaus Schmitz

Posted by Foobooz on October 5th, 2009

brauhaus_brat

Craig LaBan’s praise for Brauhaus Schmitz manages to rise above the din that the Inquirer’s restaurant critic invariably complains about.

But where it counts most – in genuine flavor – [Chef Jeremy] Nolen delivers splendidly. The slow-braised sauerbraten (a rump roast tenderized by a weeklong marinade in red wine and vinegar infused with star anise, juniper, and clove) is tucked beneath a blanket of gravy thickened with gingersnaps. The earthiness of real wild mushrooms lends a dusky intensity to the sauce for the jägerschnitzel pork cutlet, while spicy paprika, vinegar, peppers, and wine lend the zigeunerschnitzel a “gypsy style” snap.

Two Bells – Very Good

Brauhaus Schmitz [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Brauhaus Schmitz [Official Site]

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4 Responses to “Two Bells For Brauhaus Schmitz”

  1. jonathan Says:

    This guy is so out of touch with reality. Who the hell complains about noise at a German-style beer hall?

  2. Jimmy Says:

    Craig LaBan is pedantic.

  3. Joseph Says:

    Overall I like this place (especially the beer) but he is right about the noise. It can be downright deafening in there. Some soundproofing would help tremendously in there.

  4. jonathan Says:

    It is loud. But that’s part of the experience.

    I generally don’t bring my 5 dude friends to Brauhaus with the goal of quietly discussing our last book club selection over our litres of pils… We need places like this.

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