Loading ...In With The New At Oyster House
Posted by Foobooz on September 21st, 2009
Craig LaBan checks out the new interpretation of the Oyster House on Sansom Street and though he finds some classics off a bit there is more than enough to recommend.
There are more than enough touchstones done right here, however, to warm a fish-house fanatic’s heart. The grilled blue fish was the freshest I’ve had, the dusky meat updated with a summer salad of limas and heirloom tomatoes in vinaigrette. The clam chowder and lobster bisque were also unthickened, but their Lancaster-cream broths were vividly rich. The shrimp and lobster cocktails were pure raw-bar decadence, far superior to the too-lightly-grilled lobster entree. Steamed soft-shell belly clams were was the definition of New England clam-ocity.
The gumbo and fisherman’s stew, meanwhile, were satisfying seafood meals in a bowl. A Pernod-scented broth for the stew was the next best thing to good bouillabaisse. And then, of course, there is that quintessential Philadelphian odd couple: fried oysters with chicken salad.
Two Bells – Very Good
Oyster House [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Oyster House [Official Site]
1516 Sansom St, Philadelphia, PA
Related Tags: Center-City-West, Craig-LaBan, Oyster House, Reviewed, Seafood
