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Posted by Foobooz on August 17th, 2009
Craig LaBan has plenty of good things to say about the interior and the service at Noble American Cookery but feels the food needs to tone it down a notch.
There’s so much to like about this restaurant in concept, from the airy, contemporary look to the unique tulip-shaped wineglasses to its mission of redefining modern American cooking with local, seasonal inspirations. And the plates are so artfully done, I expected to love Noble until the moment my fork put that art into action, only to find so many of the dots just didn’t connect. This restaurant certainly has the ability to improve its disappointing rating in my year-end revisits. But for now, the great ingredients and good instincts don’t add up enough to culinary success. This may simply be a case of a talented cook trying too hard. It can’t be easy to live up to the pedigree of a place that so self-consciously calls itself noble.
One Bell – Hit or Miss
Noble American Cookery [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Noble American Cookery [Official Site]
2025 Sansom St, Philadelphia, PA
Related Tags: Center-City-West, Craig-LaBan, New-American, Noble American Cookery, Reviewed
August 17th, 2009 at 6:21 pm
Wow, LaBan really got this one wrong!!!! I live right near Noble, I have eaten there many times and I love it. Yes the rooms are beautiful, and the service is top notch… But my food has always been stand out fabulous. This guy is really getting out of touch with what people in this city want and love.
August 17th, 2009 at 9:35 pm
Hit or miss? Myself and everyone I know that’s eaten there must have been there for a hit. How lucky for us! I thought it was great and I will definitely go back again.
August 20th, 2009 at 9:18 am
Typical bitter review from the I wish I could cook but I can’t so I will write about it Laban. Does anyone actually embrace his opinion? Hey does anyone know why he left New Orleans? Hmmm, I wonder.
August 20th, 2009 at 10:23 am
a bad week for Mr. LaBan. Noble’s far better than he says from my experiences and his review of el camino real said that the chile relleno that got Jen Z. kicked off top chef was a good dish!
August 20th, 2009 at 1:03 pm
@ Big Stink
I like Noble quite alot, especially the burger and wingbelly plate. BUT it’s specious to suggest that Craig LaBan can’t cook.
He attended La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine in Paris before getting his masters in Journalism at Columbia.