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Ambition In A Deli

Posted by Foobooz on April 1st, 2009

teris_cheese

Teri’s in the Italian Market looks like a deli but at night, it’s playing the part of restaurant. Adam Erace tries not to judge the spot on its looks.

 

After six months spinning bacon-egg-and-cheese bagels and Italian hoagies, the siblings-in-law added dinner service in January under Executive Chef Davis Denick. A Culinary Insitute of America grad and Coquette vet, his succinct, surprising new American menu—Shad roe! Persimmon! Chestnuts!—really deserves a prettier stage.

Every Wednesday through Sunday at 5 p.m., Denick takes over, stocking that Dietz & Watson caboose not with Oscar Meyer and sharp provolone but with legs of duck confit and peeled pears for poaching aligned in orderly rows. The dishes I ate were uncomplicated, but never to a fault, and the prices—$7 to $10 appetizers, $15-$20 entrees, plus a three-course $30 prix fixe open to the whole menu and a $5 wine refund with a state store receipt—were on the money, so to speak.

 

Delicatension [Philadelphia Weekly]

1126 S 9th St, Philadelphia, PA

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One Response to “Ambition In A Deli”

  1. The Savvy Crawler Says:

    i am so glad to see that this palce is finally getting some recognition for its dinners. where else can you go around the market for that kind of food at today’s kind of prices? davis denick is a credit to the cia. the food at night is new, fresh, classic, and the crowd is anti-rittenhouse. its the best of both worlds.

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