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Pedigree At Kite & Key

Posted by Foobooz on March 4th, 2009

kite_key_mussels

Adam Erace finds promise at Kite & Key but despite chef Justin Hoke’s impressive resume the menu needs more finesse.

Aside from a mushy crab-cake slider that squished out the sides of its poppy seed bun, the rest of Hoke’s efforts showed promise. Like the perfectly respectable burger, for example, and the eight-hour-braised barbecue pork butt sandwich gone Italian with roasted long hots and sharp provolone, both served (with the sorry crab cake) in Kite and Key’s slider trio. True, the mussels lacked fire, and (except for the chili sauce) the ingredients—shallots, garlic, vermouth, chicken stock, butter, parsley— evoked more Provence than Phuket, but still, the PEI pileup was plump and sand-free, and the broth was charged with all the flavor I missed in the crepes.

Soaring Ambition [Philadelphia Weekly]
Kite & Key [Official Site]

1836 Callowhill St, Philadelphia, PA

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2 Responses to “Pedigree At Kite & Key”

  1. Heather Says:

    Pretty offensive comment about “classy gal’s” drinking macros. Would have been better put as a general comment about men and women who drink macros in place of craft. Even then beer snobbery isn’t cool. Its wrong to single out either sex over what they choose to drink. I have a bottle of Arrogant Bastard I’d love to share with Adam.

  2. rory Says:

    i only see men drinking high life. twisted tea, on the other hand, i only see underage undergrads drinking, so….

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