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Gulp, Swallow Gets One Bell

Posted by Foobooz on June 23rd, 2008

Pork au poivre at Swallow

Craig LaBan checks out Swallow, Northern Liberties newish French BYOB on Liberties Walk.

The food can still be a savior. Swallow’s menu, though, has struggled with consistency and the kind of culinary inspiration that entices diners to travel farther than a few blocks for dinner.

Some of the French-inflected dishes capture the satisfying essence of a simplicity done right. The big pork chop, for example, is tender and superbly moist, crusted in peppercorns and mustard with a side of sweet potato fries – a fair deal at $18. A starter of grilled fresh head-on sardines needed little more than sweet red peppers and roasted garlic to evoke a snack on the Mediterranean.

One Bell – Hit or Miss

Swallow [Philadelphia Inquirer]

1030 N American St, Philadelphia, PA

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