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Pat Bombino’s

Posted by Foobooz on January 3rd, 2008

Pat Bombino’s

Trey Popp was turned off by his first taste of Pat Bombino’s but subsequent dishes picked up the slack.

But like a leadoff batter who goes down on strikes only to reach base the next eight times in a row, Pat Bombino’s proceeded to hit the sweet spot with each new thing I tried. And among the walks and singles, it even managed to knock a couple over the right-field fence.

The first home run came in the form of slow-cooked duck falling to shreds over freshly cut pappardelle. Here was the warmth I’d been craving. The pasta was simply perfect, and the rich ragout had a haunting, mouth-coating flavor so subtle that I couldn’t quite pin down the spice responsible. A faint trace of nutmeg? Mace? I didn’t want to rob the dish of its mysterious allure by asking.

Pat’s A Nice [City Paper]

767 S 9th St, Philadelphia, PA

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